Exploring the Art of Fabric Manipulation

What Tracy & Rebecca Have Been Watching Lately

Becoming Karl Lagerfeld Mini Series: This mini-series offers a character-driven exploration of Karl Lagerfeld’s life, with Daniel Brühl delivering a magnetic performance that brings the iconic designer’s world to life, complemented by stunning vintage YSL costume designs.

High, Low, John Galliano: This documentary features insights from fashion elites but leaves viewers questioning its depth and impact, especially when compared to more comprehensive series like Kingdom of Dreams.

Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer: An early portrayal of Jeremy Scott’s career including an infamous car door invitation and his initial rise to helm Moschino.

Books Referenced

Tracy’s Book: Fabric Manipulation: 150 Creative Sewing Techniques

Rebecca’s Book The Art of Manipulating Fabric

Tracy & Rebecca’s Favorite Basic Gathering Methods and Hacks

Tracy’s Method: Tracy loves using the zig-zag stitch over dental floss for easy fabric gathering. This method allows you to simply hold the floss and gather the fabric, making it a quick and effective technique. She also recommends using a gathering foot or adjusting tension and stitch length for machine gathering. Tracy’s go-to hack is using a different color in the bobbin thread to differentiate top and bottom threads, making it easier to pull and control gathers. For longer sections, she suggests breaking them up and tying off ends to maintain even gathers.

Rebecca’s Method: Rebecca prefers the classic basting stitch method for gathering. She leaves long threads at either end of the basting stitch and then gently pulls one side to gather the fabric. This method offers precise control over the placement and amount of gathering, allowing for easy adjustments until the desired result is achieved. The basting stitch holds the gather in place while sewing the final seam and can be easily removed afterward.

The Fascinating History of Shirring

Rebecca delved into the etymology of “shirring” and uncovered some intriguing insights. According to The Dictionary of Fashion History by Valerie Cumming, the term “shirring” may have its origins in the German word “schüren,” which aligns with the pronunciation emphasizing the “u.” This etymological link is supported by the Oxford Dictionary, indicating that many of us have been pronouncing it incorrectly. Even more fascinating is that the word and technique of shirring first appeared in the 19th century, coinciding with the invention of sewing machines. Originally, shirring was essentially a mechanical way to smock fabric, demonstrating its early use in fashion history.

For more details, you can explore the references in The Dictionary of Fashion History and the Oxford English Dictionary.

Shirring Patterns

• By Hand London Shirred Dress: A FREE pattern perfect for experimenting with shirring. It’s a quick sew, versatile, and glamorous—ideal for anyone looking to try their hand at shirring. Find it on their Instagram stories. Highly recommended for beginners and experienced sewists alike.
• Dayo Dress by Sewing Patterns by Masin: This pattern features shirring at the waist and cuffs, along with stylish balloon sleeves and neckline tucks. It’s versatile enough for both casual and dressy occasions. Explore this pattern on the Sewing Patterns by Masin website.

Understanding Smocking

Smocking involves creating a series of gathers and overlaying them with embroidery stitches, which allow for stretch while controlling fullness. This technique can be both decorative and functional, often seen in bands on children’s clothing or historically in laborers’ attire such as farming smocks or smock frocks. For an example of traditional smocking, check out this farmer’s smock from circa 1900.

Patterns for Exploring Smocking Techniques

• Honeycomb Smocking with Working Cloth: If you’re interested in trying honeycomb smocking, Working Cloth offers a pattern on their website that introduces you to this technique with a versatile square smock top featuring many variations. This pattern has been on my to-make list for a while, especially because the honeycomb sleeves are absolutely adorable! Check it out here.
• The Sagebrush Top by Friday Pattern Company: Another great option for experimenting with smocking is the Sagebrush Top by Friday Pattern Company. The front panel of this top is perfect for adding a smocked detail, making it a fantastic choice if you want to incorporate smocking into your wardrobe. You can find this pattern here.

Honeycomb Stitch in High Fashion

Alexander McQueen 2013 Collection: A stunning example of the honeycomb stitch in high fashion can be found in the 2013 Alexander McQueen collection, designed by Sarah Burton. Tracy and I had the chance to see this breathtaking dress during an in-store exhibit a couple of years ago. The dress, made of silk organza, featured hand-smocked honeycomb patterns throughout, supported by a silk tulle and net corset underneath. It’s a perfect illustration of how a simple technique, when applied masterfully, can create an incredible impact. You can see more examples by watching the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013 Runway Show (photo above is a still from this show) or by reading this article on The Cutting Class.

Pattern Examples for More Fabric Manipulation Techniques

• Pleating – Nina Dress by Fibre Mood: If you’re looking to experiment with pleats, the Nina dress by Fibre Mood is an excellent choice. The pattern comes with a detailed tutorial to help you master pleating techniques, ensuring you achieve a polished finish. Explore the pattern and tutorial here.
• Tucks – Marnie Dress by Tilly and the Buttons: For those interested in incorporating tucks into their sewing projects, the Marnie dress by Tilly and the Buttons is a great pattern to try. It features beautifully designed tucks that add texture and detail to the garment. Check out the pattern here.
• Appliqué – Linden Sweatshirt by Grainline Studio: The Linden sweatshirt pattern by Grainline Studio is a versatile base for trying out various appliqué techniques, including reverse appliqué. It’s a simple yet stylish pattern that allows for plenty of creative freedom. Discover more about the pattern here.
• Quilting – Tamarack Jacket by Grainline Studio: If quilting is your technique of choice, the Tamarack jacket pattern by Grainline Studio is perfect for practicing your skills. This pattern is designed specifically for quilting, offering a stylish and practical project. Learn more about the pattern here.

High Fashion Inspiration

Molly Goddard

Molly Goddard is synonymous with fabric manipulation in high fashion, particularly through her signature smocking and shirring techniques. Known for her bold use of tulle and taffeta, Goddard’s work is celebrated for its combination of maximalism and meticulous craftsmanship. In a 2017 *Guardian* interview, she discussed how her team manually smocks fabric, highlighting the labor-intensive process behind her stunning creations. To explore more about her approach and impact on fashion, check out her profiles on The Guardian and more recently on Net-a-Porter.

Karina Bond Designs

For a stunning example of innovative and futuristic fashion, look no further than the work of designer Karina Bond. Her designs feature laser-cut silk organza, intricate frills, hand-gathered panels, and sculptural shapes that push the boundaries of modern fashion. Karina Bond gained significant attention when Jo Whiley wore one of her dresses at Glastonbury, showcasing the unique artistry of her creations. You can explore more of her work on her official website and see the Glastonbury dress on Jo Whiley’s Twitter.