Autumn/Winter 2024 Outerwear: Sustainable Techniques & Ideas Inspired by the Runway

Creating Sculptural Sleeve Shapes

This sleeve shape can seem intimidating at first, but once you understand it, you can create beautiful, sculptural elements in your garments. Here are some resources and tips for tackling this shape:

Pattern Suggestions: If you’re looking for a pre-made pattern, it may be challenging to find modern options, as this shape is more advanced and less common among beginner-friendly patterns. However, a fuller underarm design can give a similar draped, dolman sleeve effect without the tricky gusset and bust dart. Keep an eye out for vintage patterns, which are more likely to feature this style.

Drafting Techniques: For those interested in drafting this jacket and sleeve shape, we recommend the Fashion Patternmaking Techniques Vol. 3 by Antonio Donnano, particularly the instructions in the Kimono sleeve section. For an advanced version with a built-in collar, the Haute Couture Vol. 1 from the same series offers a fantastic “paint-by-numbers” drafting guide.

Exploring Cape Patterns for Autumn/Winter 2024 Outerwear

There are countless cape patterns available, and we’re excited to share a few that offer a range of styles, from classic to modern:

• Vogue 8959 Cape: One of the first pieces of outerwear Tracy ever made was this versatile cape pattern, which offers a variety of lengths and includes a collar. The cape is made up of several panels, allowing for a structured yet flowing design.
• Fibre Mood Delma Cape: For a more modern take on the cape, check out the Delma Cape by Fibre Mood. This shorter cape features a front storm flap, a pleat at the back, side seam closures, and a hidden button fastening. It’s a chic option that I have cut out and ready to go!
• I AM Patterns Harry Cape: If you’re aiming to match the circular look of the Chloé cape, consider the Harry Cape by I AM Patterns. This pattern offers a classic silhouette with modern touches.
• Style Arc Nell Cape: For a simpler, unlined option, the Nell Cape by Style Arc is a great choice. It features bound edges and inseam pockets, making it a stylish and functional addition to any wardrobe.
• Tutorial for drafting your own cape: https://www.indoorshannon.com/sew-a-simple-chic-cape-sew-along-and-tutorial/

Classics Re-Imagined: Trench Coats & Outerwear Patterns

If you’re looking to re-imagine classic outerwear styles, here are some pattern suggestions that put a fresh twist on timeless designs:

• Named Patterns Isla Trench: For a modern take on the classic trench coat, consider the Isla Trench by Named Patterns. This pattern offers a sleek and sophisticated silhouette, making it a versatile addition to your wardrobe.
• Fibre Mood Martha Trench: Another great option is the Martha Trench by Fibre Mood. This pattern provides a stylish, contemporary spin on the traditional trench coat design.
• Tessuti Patterns Coat Selection: For a wider variety of coat styles, explore the collection of coats and jackets from Tessuti Patterns. They offer a fantastic range of classic outerwear patterns with unique details that allow you to reimagine timeless coat designs.

Scarf + Coat AW 24

• Inspired by the Balenciaga One Seam Coat concept, which is known for its zero-waste design, this shape can be adapted with an added scarf piece or collar. Check out this amazing example by a maker from 2021 who showcased the coat’s versatility: Balenciaga One Seam Coat Example.

• Style Arc Wren Jacket: For a pattern similar to this style, the Wren Jacket by Style Arc offers a great match, reminiscent of last season’s Toteme design.

Working with Double-Faced Wool

For guidance on sewing with double-faced wool, there are some helpful resources available. Check out these write-ups on techniques and tips:

• Inspiration for Double Cloth Sewing
• How to Sew a Basic Seam with Double-Faced Wool

Additionally, here are some sewing patterns that guide you through working with double cloth:

• KAIA Double Face Coat by Bella Loves Patterns: KAIA Double Face Coat Pattern
• The Pattern Line Mulberry Coat: Mulberry Coat Pattern

Recommended Reading on Wool and Fabric History

If you’re looking to deepen your understanding of wool and fabric care, here are two highly recommended reads:

• Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Shaeffer: This comprehensive guide covers various types of wool and offers detailed information on sewing, washing, steaming, and pressing techniques for different fabrics. A must-have for sewing enthusiasts! Find it here.
• A Short History of the World According to Sheep: For a fascinating and entertaining journey into the history of fabric, yarn, and clothing, this book is an incredibly insightful read. You’ll discover a mix of useful and quirky facts that make for a delightful experience. Get your copy here.

Leather & a Jacket

Leather and faux leather outerwear dominated the runways this season, with unique pieces like a vinyl-like patent in deep bottle green at Chloé and a puffed espresso leather coat at Jil Sander. While classic leather jackets were present, the standout trend was unconventional outerwear styles made from leather or similar materials. To incorporate this trend, try using leather, faux leather, or waxed cotton with a jacket pattern not originally intended for these fabrics to achieve a similar effect.

Incorporating the Fringe and Super Fluff Trend

The super fluff and fringe trend is more complex from a materials standpoint, as many runway looks require integrating fringing into your pattern, whether it’s an all-over fringed knit coat or a simple fringe trim. Here are some tips and tricks for achieving this look:

• Vintage Fringe Patterns: Consider using vintage patterns like Simplicity 9542 to recreate the runway looks. You might need to hack the pattern slightly to make it more modern.
• Adding Fringe Trims: Search for trims, fringing, or frills on your favorite sewing supply sites. You can occasionally find fringing materials via deadstock shops for a sustainable option.
• Upcycling Outerwear: Another idea is to modify an existing outerwear piece by adding fringe instead of starting from scratch. For example, upcycling a faux leather piece with a tapestry needle and yarn can transform the look, or try adding fringing to woven fabric using the same technique.